Along the Aegean, Part 4

Long after dark I continue cycling the next night. I'm not sure where all the time went this day (I forgot to take pictures and notes, unforunately). Cycling in complete darkness on almost empty roads is a new experience for me, and I enjoy every second of it.

In the pitch black I stumble across an abandoned rocky beach where I decide to spend the night. I don't even have to pitch up my tent since there is some kind of porch where I can put my sleeping pad.

Only the odd car looping around the beach on the main road is breaking the silence.

When I make a quick stop in Finike the next day, local stops me:

- "Hello! Where are you from? Where are you going? Come with me, have a Cay with me. I have a jewelry store, just right here. Come with me!"

I follow the man to his small corner shop down the road, where he sells handcrafted self-made bracelets, rings and necklaces as well as some generic China-made items.

He urges me to tell him some stories and to show him my photos on the phone, all the while he does not stop complimenting my accomplishments.

- "Now, look around my store!" he says, when I come to an end after some 20 minutes. "What would you like to buy? How about this necklace? Or... look at this ring!"

I look around, but there isn't really anything I want to buy. Moreover I really don't like being invited under false pretense and then being guilt-tripped into making a purchase.

- "I need a sale! You are my first customer since I opened 4 weeks ago! I need a purchase for good luck! How about this Talisman? It will give you good luck! Only 20 Lira"

I politely make it clear that while I certainly can appreciate his art, I'm not interested to buy any jewelry, no matter the cost.

- "I have had enough good luck so far" I reply. "But if I have an accident on my way out of the city, I will certainly come back and buy your necklace" I add, jokingly.

I do feel a bit sorry for the man, who is visibly upset when I leave. But certainly I wouldn't have come to his store had I known this would turn into a sales pitch.

A quick lunch break at the seaside and some 30 minutes later I'm on the road again. Well almost: I have a flat tire. And another one, only 20 minutes later.

Has my luck turned...!?

Finding a sleeping spot is a real nightmare that evening. At first, I disturb a bunch of wild pigs while setting up my tent. Then I realize that my tent doesn't fit underneath the tree where I started setting it up, and I have to move to a different position. Also What I hadn't seen in the dark is that the ground in this area is covered with thistle-like plants, putting my at risk not only for punctures in my tires but also in my air mattress.

And of course, bad luck strikes again: In the morning, both tires are as flat as a sheet of paper.

Maybe I should go back and buy that amulet? 🤔

Today I will get to Antalya, no matter What!

With godspeed I descent the mountain I climbed last night. Another touring cyclist is going uphill on the other side! Should I...? I

I jam on the brakes to say Hi to the fellow traveler. It's around 10am and we decide to take a quick stop at a nearby restaurant.

Claudiu from Romania tells me he is on his way from Cyprus where he works as seasonal staff in a hotel, to his home in Romania. While I am having a proper meal, Claudiu drinks no less than 2 large beers and orders a 3rd one just when I'm ready to leave. That must be his main source of energy on the trip, as he claims he averages between 6 and 12 beers ... every day!

I also stunned to learn that he's been touring for more than 10 years, having had 10-20 bikes stolen and generally doesn't care anymore if it happens, as he only uses cheap bikes now anyways.