4 weeks in Istanbul

Already before getting to the metropole I'm receiving some messages via Couchsurfing.com, where I had published my trip to Istanbul beforehand:

"I saw your post and I would like to host you for 2 or 3 nights!"

"We can walk around the city and have a drink. I can help you explore the city."

"I'm a cyclist too, can give you some tips if you need".

But before meeting anyone, I have to get there first. And I'm running late today. Very late...

In my imagination I just saw a relatively easy trip on flat terrain from Silivri to Istanbul, 80km or so. The hostel for the first few nights is booked. I'm leaving Silivri at 11:15. Have an extended lunch break shortly after. Coz I got so much time... Pedal through the suburbs. And of course, I get just another flat rear tire NOW. It's afternoon, 4 pm, and I still have about 40 km to go. I check the wheel, pull out a few more thorns (What else could it be). I pull a big one from the front tire, too. A hissing sound, and the air escapes within 3 seconds. Now I got 2 flats... juuuuust great!

I take the wheels off and get the tubes out. I look for the holes. I curse the loud traffic which makes it almost impossible to find additional holes. I double, triple check. I find another hole. I wait for the tubes to hold the air. I pump up the tires. I reassemble. I continue.

Cycling into Istanbul is no joke. In fact there are many reports by cyclists online to testify to that, and I am mentally prepared. Being on the road and actually experiencing it is a whole different story though. At one point I think that all the mini busses -- who stop in the most random spots anywhere on the highway -- are in fact on a mission to kill any cyclist they encounter. I must have lost at least 1mm of brake lining that day...

It's getting dark, and Istanbul is nowhere in sight. Despite mostly pedaling close to the flat coast line I'm not nearly as quick as I thought I would be. Traffic is dense, and I frequently have to stop to look at the GPS to see if I'm still on the right path.

When I eventually approach the Bakirkoy ferry terminal (which should have a line going straight to Kadikoy, where my hostel is) ... the terminal is closed off! Apparently the service is shut down for the day.

The pedestrians I ask for advice are either tourists or unable to help me. One even suggests to stay in the Western part of Istanbul for the night, because it would now (just after 9pm) be impossible to get over to the other side. Huh? No way.

And he's wrong. As I cycle along the seaside, another cyclist advises me to go to Eminonu and take the ferry to Kadikoy from there. An hour later I have somehow managed to buy a ticket and get on the right ferry.

It is 11pm when I reach my hostel on the Asian side of the Bosporus (Hush Hostel Lounge). I've officially made it to a new continent! In the following 4 weeks I will be mostly couch surfing (using both couchsurfing.com and warmshowers.org), with just a handful of hostel nights inbetween. In Istanbul, a mere 150.000 (read: one-hundred-fifty-thousand) hosts are available on the platform couchsurfing.com, and also the warmshowers map is busy with people eager to host cyclists. I'm stunned!

Here's the most memorable impressions from 4 weeks all over Istanbul

• Karakoy: An English teacher and her friend show me around the city core and the main tourist landmarks
• Levent: An outdoor enthusiast hosts me and takes me to the movie theatre, a "plogging" event, a couchsurfing party, a photo tour and introduces me to her friends
• Bakirkoy: A civil servant and his room mate host me for a night, serve me delicious dinner and share some thoughts on the political situation in Turkey
• Eminonu: A muslim girl shares Cay, Baclava and an interesting world view with me on a roof top cafe at night
• Kadikoy: A piano teacher and her room mate host me and take care of me while I'm struck down with a strong cold, introduce me to other cyclists and explore Prince island together
• Bostanci: An engineer and his sister host me for a whole week. Helps me plan my Turkey route, cycle and walk all around Bosporus with his friend, brings me to the best food and Baclava in town
• Goeztepe: A cycling and cat enthusiast (3 cats in total, 1 of them blind) invites me to stay at her place and treats me a vegan dinner
• Moda: A crazy architect and couch surfing superhost with an audacious cat hosts me on short-notice for 2 nights
• Uskudar: A lawyer and motorcyclist lets me stay at his place for 4 nights, shows me around the neighborhood and provides helpful information and suggestions for my route